“The first rule of Project Mayhem is that you do not ask questions…”
this may be my new teaching mantra
I am considering calling my custom footwear “Mayhem Shoes” (at least until Chuck Palahniuk’s space monkey lawyers make me stop).
I teach a couple classes about low-tech shoemaking a few times per year in the primitive survival skills community. The designs I focus on are styles that can be made by one person in one day; a popular theme in early historic examples. Some require a lot of cutting, some require sewing. There is an off-grid, neo-Luddite attitude about making your own shoes. In fact, I think I will register the name Dystopian Leather Works as my new business. I’m considering a small business venture to go into custom production of the shoes I teach people to make as well as expanding the custom leather work I currently produce.
The kinds of people that take these classes are from all walks of life, not just survivalists, historical nerds, or experimental archaeologists, but folks who want to make things for themselves for whatever reason. I’m finding that there are others who might just want the handmade product without the labor of making them. In a day, an attentive student can produce a wearable (and good-looking) pair of serviceable shoes like the carbatina (ghillies) above.
For those looking for a more modern look a fine pair of sandals can be made with just a few hours, cutting and sewing. These are easily re-solable and should last the better part of a lifetime. Look familiar? Chaco and Teva didn’t exactly re-invent the wheel; just updated the materials and outsourced the work overseas. Even in the wilds of Canada, traditional ghillies can be a useful part of the wardrobe. Mike made these two years ago and they still protect his sturdy peasant feet.
There is something very satisfying about taking a piece of nondescript, vegetable tanned leather and creating a lasting and useful object with your own hands.
The beauty is truly in the details. Serious students often bevel and burnish edges to give their shoes a “finished” look, suitable for public wear.
Above, a student trial fits the uppers before attaching the outsole. In my classes, the outermost sole on any of these shoes may be a durable Vibram material, a softer but grippy Soleflex, or natural leather. The latter option is popular with those who are interested in treading lightly on the earth or those who are concerned with earthing or grounding.
Learning as community. It is always a very social event to teach these courses. No matter the variety of backgrounds, we are sharing an ancient craft in common.
As in all leatherwork, neatness counts. A good hand with a knife is a great asset for shoemaking.
Test fitting the straps for buckle placement and strap length.
This style sandal may be tied or buckled but I have found that a 3/4″ center bar buckle is about the easiest to work with and adjust.
Bowing to modern convenience. For the classes, we use contact cement to adhere the insole, mid-sole, and outsole. This insures a good connection and will hold up even if the stitching doesn’t last forever.
The author demonstrates the wrong way to rough out a pattern. Cutting out oversize pieces for the sake of time-savings.
Tough rubber soles will make these sandals last years and are easily replaced.
Trial fitting a ghillie after soaking in water. They feel ridiculously thick and stiff for the first hour or two but tend to suddenly relax an become a part of the foot after a soak in neatsfoot oil.
Ready for taking part in the highland games or dancing at a cèilidh
Sometimes it helps in shaping to take a hammer to the leather when it is stiff and wet.
It is important to leave the channels free of glue so that the straps may be adjusted in future. You never know when you might need to wear some black socks with those sandals.
Helping a student skive out some particularly stiff areas.
Mom tries on her new shoes before going home to make some for the whole family. 
Even an old shoemaker is interested in this ancient design.
Happy and diligent students show off their newest creations. These could be directly from the shoe store. But without the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.
Above are few photos from previous classes. Thanks to all who come and make!
Preindustrial Craftsmanship 
Looks great George. When I grow up I want to do these kinds of things.
Ha! I have no idea what I’m going to do when I grow up.
That’s pretty spiffy! I might try my hand at that someday, since they don’t make moccasin kits in a men’s US 15. I’ve been watching too much “Walking Dead,” and wondering where they keep finding shoes, seven years after everything stops.
George, I am wondering if you could discuss the leather used for the ghillies, for example the thickness or where to buy it at. Thank you.
yes i’d like to know this as well
The absolute best leather for durability and form-fitting is veg-tanned leather. I suggest Hermann-Oak tooling leather or something similar in 6 oz or more. Springfield Leather is my “go to” these days as they are fast, friendly, and offer a good price.
Digging those shoes, George! Would love to attend a class with you.